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            ...Climb!

Maintenance phase

Welcome to the maintenance phase.

This phase is packed with a mix of everything to maintain your

level of fitness and to take you through the climbing season. By this stage you are used to the training units and can easily use the combination of units that is going to help you make the gains that you need. The combination that I use is an example of a good base which can be tweaked here and there to suit your goals.

After a good warm up I like to do half an isolated finger power session followed by half an isolated upper body session and then half a compound finger power session. This is ideal to keep the power up.

I then do either half a interval training or traverse for 10 - 15 minutes twice using a combination of hardish moves to get a bit of a pump and easy moves to recover. Every second week I like to do a full interval training.

A session of compound body strength and core will end off a good maintenance session. I do this session once or twice a week depending on how often I can climb in the gym. In the gym it is time to start working those hard projects on lead or in the boulder cave, followed by long non stop climbing 20 - 30 minutes. This will give you the required endurance for the longer routes.

Outside on the rock it is also time to start sending last years projects and getting onto some new ones. Adjust the maintenance program to match your weaknesses on the routes, a bit more power or a bit more stamina. The usual jogging and stretching will help with recovery and keep you free of injury.

Maintenance

5 - 10 min warm up. hopping, loosen hips, shoulders, wrists and fingers. Easy climbing with some low intensity lock offs. Light finger curls at end.

                                                  

Isolated finger strength: 20 minutes

Full crimp

+/- 5 x One minute hangs

Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute, when power decreases stop.

3 minute rest

Half crimp

+/- 5 x One minute hangs

Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute, when power decreases stop.

3 minute rest

Slopper:

+/- 5 x One minute hangs

Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute, when power decreases stop.

3 minute rest

Isolated uper body power: 8 minutes

1 x 3 - 5 pull ups then 3 x 5 second lock offs left and right

10 x TRX crunch push ups

2 minute rest

1 x 3 - 5 pull ups then 3 x 5 second lock offs left and right

10 x TRX crunch push ups

Compound finger strength: 32 minutes                         

                                                                                              

Half crimp:

1 x there3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand

10 Tricep extensions and Biceps, kneeling on Bosu

1 x back3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand

10 Tricep extensions and Biceps, kneeling on Bosu

1 x there 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand

10 Tricep extensions and Biceps, kneeling on Bosu

Half crimp or Sloper

+/- 5 x Half Crimp or Sloper Reaches

Hold on two half crimps or slopers, feet on foot holds, reach up with right hand, then left hand

        to higher half crimp or sloper then back down, then back up, until you pop off.

3 minute rest

Compound finger and forearm stamina: 24 - 32 minutes

Full crimp:

1 x there and back 1 minute +/- 20 moves

        1 minute easy boulder

        1 minute rest with sit ups

Half crimp:

1 x there and back 1 minute+/- 20 moves

        1 minute easy boulder

        1 minute rest with sit ups

Repeat set 3 - 4 times. One set could also sloper.