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...Climb!
Power phase
Training plan and video to training plan bottom of page.
Welcome to the power phase.
¨It‘s not a size problem, it‘s a power problem!¨ Lynn Hill
This 4 - 5 week phase (February) is designed to build up maximum
power for the hard crux moves on routes or bouldering. The intensity is high, 90% - 100% or 4 - 6 reps or 4 - 6 seconds or 4 - 6 moves depending on the exercise.
I also like to do this as a circuit training which raises the cardiovascular intensity.
Isolated finger power:
Once again we train the fingers as in the build up phase, this time the hangs are shorter, maximum 6 seconds and the rests longer 50 seconds. We also call these 'minute hangs', hang as long as you can and rest for the rest of the minute. Adjust the size of the grip, angel of the wall or add weight to get a perfect 6 second hang. You do as many hangs as possible until there is a drop in the ability to hang on for more than 4 seconds. For the hangs always do the smaller grips first then moving onto the larger ones.
(30 - 40 minutes)
Isolated upper body power:
Straight after the fingers I do 4 - 5 pull ups and then lock off 95% on one arm for 5 seconds then the other arm for 5 seconds 3 times. This should require 100% effort if not then add weight so that each set is done at a max. I do three of these sets with a 3 minute rest between sets where I do 10 - 15 TRX crunch push ups.
(12 minutes)
Compound finger power:
After a good rest, of at least 15 minutes it is time for the lock offs. The lock off program for the fingers is the same as in the build up phase only now the intensity is raised. The lock off is for 5 seconds and the wall should be so steep that a traverse in only one direction or only half as many moves is possible (4 - 6 moves for each hand). rest for 3 minutes between sets and do 3 sets of each grip.
(32 minutes)
Compound body power:
This phase is the same as in build up, just the intensity is higher. Steepen the wall, widen your stance or add weight so that you can only do half the number of moves and lock off for 5 seconds. Work the abs in between the reps as in the build up phase.
Some good stretching will close off another excellent 1.5 - 2 hour session. I like to do this phase on Tuesday and Thursday and some easy climbing on the weekend and a good 30 to 60 minute jog on rest days will speed up recovery and increase your cardiovascular capability.
In the 5th week start the transition to the stamina phase. In the two sessions slowly do less power work and more interval boulders. This will give you time to create the ideal boulders and the perfect intensity for the start of the stamina phase.
Power Training
5 - 10 min warm up. hopping, loosen hips, shoulders, wrists and fingers. Easy climbing with some low intensity lock offs. Light finger curls at end.
climbing specific exersises, can be done alone and the non specific exersises done the next day.
or
Isolated finger power and compound body power the one day and compound finger power and isolated body power the next day.
Isolated finger power: 40 minutes
Full crimp:
+/- 10 x One minute hangs
Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute, when power decreases stop.
3 minute rest
Half crimp:
+/- 10 x Half Crimp Reaches
Hang on two half crimps, reach up with right hand, then left hand when power decreases stop 3 minute rest
Slopper:
+/- 10 x One minute hangs
Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute, when power decreases stop.
Isolated upper body power: 12 minutes
1 x 3 - 5 pull ups then 3 x 5 second lock offs left and right
10 x TRX crunch push ups
2 minute rest
1 x 3 - 5 pull ups then 3 x 5 second lock offs left and right
10 x TRX crunch push ups
2 minute rest
1 x 3 - 5 pull ups then 3 x 5 second lock offs left and right
10 x TRX crunch push ups
Compound finger power: 24 minutes
Half crimp:
1 x there 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand
10 Tricep extensions, kneeling on Bosu
1 x back 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand
10 Tricep extensions, kneeling on Bosu
1 x there 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand
10 Tricep extensions, kneeling on Bosu
Slopper:
1 x there 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand
10 Lat extensions, kneeling on Bosu
1 x back 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand
10 Lat extensions, kneeling on Bosu
1 x there 3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand
10 Lat extensions, kneeling on Bosu
or 2 x full crimp, 2 x half crimp, 2 x sloper
Compound body power and core: 30 minutes
Top holes, one way
1 x there 5 sec lock off
15 x TRX crunch, hands on Bosu
Lower holes, undercling, one way
1 x there 5 sec lock off
15 x TRX side raises left and right, waist on Bosu
Lunges, one way
1 x there 5 sec lock off
10 x TRX hamstring curls, shoulders on Bosu
repeat above 2 - 3 times
Finish with some easy stretching.
