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Stamina phase

Build up phaseBase.html
Power phasePower.html
Endurance  phaseEndurance.html
Maintenance  phaseMaintenance.html
Warm up and stretchwarm_up_and_stretch.html
Stamina phase

Training plan and video to training plan bottom of page.

Welcome to the power endurance phase,

also known as stamina!

Once again this phase runs for 4 - 5 weeks (March/April) and is designed to get the muscles used to the unique combination that climbing is, a mix of power and endurance, fighting through the pump and fast recovery. In the world of athletics this would be the

800 - 1500 meter race. It's not a sprint (pure power), 100 - 400 m. And it is not an endurance race 5000 - marathon (pure endurance). We also learn how to recover, whether on a large hold in a route or even in the time between grips. This training is called interval training.

Isolated finger and upper body power:

After a good warm up I do 5 - 6 half crimp and sloper one minute hangs and one set of isolated pull ups and isolated power pull ups and lock offs. I do 10 TRX Push Ups inbetween the sets. This is to make sure that the gains that were made during the power session are not lost.

Compound finger and forearm stamina:

Start the stamina session by climbing a set out boulder for one minute, about 20 moves. Have the intensity such that you can do it with about 95% effort (you would be able to do another 2 - 3 moves). After the hardish boulder you go straight onto a rest boulder for a minute. Create a boulder with large grips for a total active recovery, try and shake out between moves. There is then a one minute rest (time to adjust the wall if needed) followed by a second hard boulder of a different character to the first which is followed by a minute rest boulder and then the one minute rest again. There can be a third boulder in the session. I do this session 3 - 4 times. (24 - 32 minutes) and only 1 - 2 times a week. Be careful not to do to many of these without a full recovery in between ( 2 - 3 days ). 

Compound body strength:

After the boulder session and a bit of a rest I do a circuit training of Torque lock offs, pull ups, push ups, dips and abbs in between. The same intensity as in the build up phase 70% - 80%. Stretching every day should be part of your daily program. In the climbing gym you can start doing some harder routes, up to your on-sight level. Try not to get too pumped during the gym climbing, this should be more of a rest/recovery climbing. As usual a nice 30- 60 minute jog 2 - 3 times a week does wonders for your recovery (breaking down of lactic acid) and gives you time to get psyched for the climbing to come. I found that during this phase I started to loose weight, burn fat. The combination of the interval training and circuit training is amazing for getting the metabolism going.

In the 5th week a transition to endurance and maintenance is made. For the first session in the week do half a power session and then do lots of non stop climbing (10 - 15 minutes) with a mix of a few hard moves and some good shake-outs and just move, move, move. The second session is a pure interval training. By this stage you will feel like you are ready for all your projects and more, take it easy! A month of maintenance will have you ready.

Back to Exersises PageExersises.html

Stamina Training

5 - 10 min warm up. hopping, loosen hips, shoulders, wrists and fingers. Easy climbing with some low intensity lock offs. Light finger curls at end.

climbing specific exersises, can be done alone and the non specific exersises done the next day.


Isolated finger power: 10-15 minutes

Half crimp:

5 - 6 One minute hangs.

                  Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute.

                  10 x TRX crunch push ups


5 - 6 One minute hangs

         Hang for about 5 - 6 seconds rest for the rest of the minute.

                 10 x TRX crunch push ups

Isolated upper body strength and power: 10 minutes

1 x 10 pull ups

10 x TRX crunch push ups

2 minute rest

1 x 3 - 5 pull ups then 3 x 5 second lock offs left and right

10 x TRX crunch push ups

Compound finger power: 3 minutes                         


Half crimp:

1 x    3 -5 second lock off +/- 12 moves 6 each hand


        10 - 15 minutes of dynamic movement. great fun!

Compound finger and forearm stamina: 24 - 32 minutes

Full crimp:

1 x there and back 1 minute +/- 20 moves

        1 minute easy boulder

        1 minute rest

Half crimp:

1 x there and back 1 minute+/- 20 moves

        1 minute easy boulder

        1 minute rest

Repeeat set 3 - 4 times. One set could also be full crimp, half crimp and sloper.

Compound body strength and core: 30 minutes

Top holes, one way

1 x there 5 sec lock off

15 x TRX crunch, hands on Bosu

Lower holes, undercling, one way

1 x there 5 sec lock off

15 x TRX side raises left and right, waist on Bosu

Lunges, one way

1 x there 5 sec lock off

10 x TRX hamstring curls, shoulders on Bosu

repeat above 2 - 3 times

Finish with some easy stretching.